Spring 1949

Woman's Suit: Jacket and Skirt

Christian Dior brought femininity, grace, and elegance to postwar fashion. In his first collection from 1947, which the editor of "Harper's Bazaar" christened the "New Look", Dior redefined the fashionable silhouette: short skirts, limited in width and length by French wartime restrictions, were replaced by long skirts using yards of fabric; square shoulders gave way to a more natural, rounded look; and nipped-in waists emphasized hips made fuller by pleats or padding, adding a new voluptuousness to the female form. The tailored wool suit, called "Avenue Hoch," from Dior's Spring/Summer 1949 "Trompe l'Oeil" or "Illusion" collection, further develops the design principles of the New Look. Strategically placed pockets emphasize the hips and diminish the waist, while the swing-pleated panel at the back of the skirt adds movement to the silhouette without adding fullness.