c. 1886-1887

Woman's Evening Dress: Bodice and Skirt

This elegant evening dress was worn by Mrs. Ernest Fenollosa, first wife of the eminent professor and art historian of Japanese art, who with her husband lived in Tokyo for twelve years. The gown was worn about the time her husband became the director of Japan's Imperial Museum in Tokyo, possibly for her presentation at the Imperial court. The layering of texture, color, and pattern in this gown with its distinctive floral brocade, satin, faille, and lace pays homage to France's unrivaled textile industry. The designer's special relationship with the silk mills of Lyon allowed him to dictate the colors, patterns, and weaves that he required. During the Fenollosas' time in Tokyo, the Empress of Japan adopted Western dress for public appearances beginning in 1886.